“Ameseginalehu”, I say as another bright eyed Abyssinian
goddess hands me my third ice cold ‘St Georges’ beer in the warm midday
sun. She smiles a laugh, not mocking my
mispronounced and accented version of the Amharic for ‘thank-you’, but in a
humble kindness that I have become so accustomed to in Ethiopia. I turn to
leave with
mixed emotions, feeling warm and welcomed, but also slightly saddened, like I have just made a friend I will never see again. That is the effect that the beautiful nature of the Ethiopian people will have on you, and this is one of the greatest things about visiting the country. Service is
impeccable, but above and beyond this, is the sincere, humble and affectionate hospitality you will receive when meeting people at the resorts, in the villages and on the streets of Ethiopia. It is difficult not to be taken in by the breath-taking scenery and the rich and vibrant cultural heritage, but even more
difficult to control is falling head-over-heels in love with the warm-hearted and culturally diverse people of this ancient African nation.
mixed emotions, feeling warm and welcomed, but also slightly saddened, like I have just made a friend I will never see again. That is the effect that the beautiful nature of the Ethiopian people will have on you, and this is one of the greatest things about visiting the country. Service is
impeccable, but above and beyond this, is the sincere, humble and affectionate hospitality you will receive when meeting people at the resorts, in the villages and on the streets of Ethiopia. It is difficult not to be taken in by the breath-taking scenery and the rich and vibrant cultural heritage, but even more
difficult to control is falling head-over-heels in love with the warm-hearted and culturally diverse people of this ancient African nation.
Addis Ababa
A distinctive characteristic of Addis Ababa, which means
‘new flower’ in Amharic, is the natural way in which the city has developed
over its history, with no town planning. This has allowed for an organic growth
pattern that reflects the cultural and historical legacy of the city and its
people. Rising out of a sea of traditional dwellings and shop fronts, modern
multi-storey buildings reflect the African sun in their dazzling glass and
aluminium finishings. While down below, donkey carts jostle with shiny new
SUV’s through busy streets with no traffic laws, and hawkers sell traditional
medicines on the steps of high end shops peddling designer brands. It is chaos,
but it’s a synchronised chaos that works, and which is propelling this city forward into
modernity at an alarming rate. With all
the modern conveniences, and splendour of its cultural heritage, Addis Ababa
offers travellers the best of both worlds, always side by side.
Shopper’s Paradise
Addis Ababa is home to the largest open-air market in Africa – the
Addis Mercato (Amharic for ‘new market’). The Mercato covers several square
miles in the Addis Katema district of the capital city, and employs an
estimated 13 000 people at any given time. Here you will find plenty of
agricultural produce as well as traditional merchandise: the colourful basket
work and silver filigree of Harar, the three legged stools of Jimma, and the
hand-made wool carpets of Debre Birhan, the crosses of Gondar, as well as
pottery, wood carvings, embroidered cloth, artworks and jewellery of all the
different cultural regions of Ethiopia.
Besides the hundreds of
stalls, the market is also home to 120 shops, and a massive shopping centre
with 75 modern stores, making the Addis Mercato a one-stop shopper’s paradise.
For those who may be too intimidated by all of this, everything can also be
found in the smaller markets, at the dozen or so extravagant multi-storey malls
and in any of the thousands of standalone shops scattered around the city.
Whatever it is you are looking for, from cultural curios through to the latest
designer brands, Addis Ababa will cater for your shopping needs.
Café
culture, cuisine couture
Shopping in Addis Ababa can be an
exhausting experience, with so much choice and the process of bargaining to
wear even the most die-hard shopper down. Thankfully the city is dotted with great
restaurants and quiet courtyard cafés to escape to. Most sell traditional
meals, but many sell food from western menus, as well as other parts of the
world. A great place to try is the Bait Al Mandi restaurant. Featuring nine
separate and private dining rooms, each with its own theme based on a Middle
Eastern country – Yemen, Egypt, Saudi Arabia to name a few. Each room is in
turn decorated in the style and custom of its designated country, and offers
diners an opportunity to sample the cuisine of that nation. Two other great
options can be found under one roof, The Diplomat and the Lime Tree restaurants
in the Boston Partners building on the famous Bole road. The Diplomat offers
fine dining in a stylish atmosphere with an incredible view of the city. The
Lime Tree Cafe, in contrast offers diners a more relaxed atmosphere, yet still with
a great menu. Whatever your preference, you will be spoiled for choice with
hundreds of local and international themed restaurants located all over the
city.
Beauty by design,
pampering with passion
For those travellers that need a more intense way to relax
after a day of activity out in the hustle and bustle of Addis life, you will be
pleased to hear that the city has a thriving Spa Therapy industry, and there are
plenty of opportunities to take a little time to unwind. Our favourite is the chic and trendy Boston
Day Spa, housing seven floors of spa treatments. From a hair salon, through the
manicure and pedicure bays, massage dens and Moroccan Bathes, the Boston Day
Spa offers the complete relaxation package all neatly wrapped up in über-stylish,
locally influenced interior design.
Bright lights and
Addis night life
A setting sun doesn’t mark the end of a day in Addis Abba,
and as the street lights flicker on, so too does the beat that keeps thrill
seekers going on strong well into the night. For the tourist, the starting
point for a great first night out in Addis has to be the Yod Abyssinia cultural
restaurant. A hallmark for years, the restaurant offers great traditional food
and live cultural entertainment to a packed audience every night. Do not leave
Addis without experiencing this spot for yourself! After dinner there, or
elsewhere, the night is yours with a plethora of night clubs, bars and
discothèques at your disposal. A particularly trendy and stylish spot that is a
must visit is Suba Lounge. With cutting-edge interior design, great music and
friendly service, in this club/lounge it is quite easy to imagine you are miles
away in New York, or Paris or perhaps even Tokyo. If a more authentic Ethiopian experience is
what you are after, then be sure to check out one of the many local bars.
Euphemistically dubbed as ‘buna bet’ (coffee houses), these are frequented by
locals who are more than willing to welcome foreigners into their favouritehangout
to share a drink, a story and a dance.
Getting around at night is safe, easy and convenient, with
local taxis on hand at affordable rates throughout the city. As long as you can
utter the name of your hotel or guest house, rest assured they will get you
home no matter what state you are in.
Where I lay my head
is home . . .
Due to its diplomatic ties, growing tourism industry and
centralised location, Addis Ababa houses some of the finest hotels in the
world, but also offers accommodation to suit any budget. From backpacker to
dignitary, there are plenty of options for any class of traveller. The Kaleb
and Dreamliner hotels are worthy looking into for inner city
accommodation. A great alternative to
staying in the city is staying at the nearby area of Debre Zeit. Just forty
five minutes outside Addis (20 minutes once the new multi-lane highway is
complete), the five lakes of Debre Zeit play host to many beautiful and
luxurious resorts, and offer the option of spending a quiet night away from the
fast paced lifestyle of the capital city. (Debre Zeit will be featured in full in next
week’s Destination Travel feature).
A new sun rises, an
old city wakes
Addis Ababa, although still young in the shade of three
thousand years of Ethiopian history, nevertheless is a city steeped in
cultural, historical and religious wealth. There are scores of great
attractions to be found within the city limits. The Medhane Alem cathedral is
the second largest church in Africa, and is the centre of Ethiopian Orthodox
Christian life in the city, while the Lion of Judah monument is an impressive
testament to the Hebraic roots traced back in the nation’s history. Many museums, churches, mosques, monuments
and art galleries are dotted all over the capital city, and offer visitors an
interesting and comprehensive insight into the Ethiopian heritage.
All in all, Addis Ababa is an adventure. There is no other
city like it in the world. It may contain many of the things you can find
elsewhere -but it also contains many things that you will find nowhere else in
the world– and only here are they all bound together in the cultural mosaic and
splendid contradiction that is Addis Ababa.
As the African sun sets on the ‘New Flower’ of Ethiopia, I take the final sip of my last beer on the evening of my departure, I look to the sky and on an exhale I am certain I hear a whisper on the wind, “Ameseginalehu.”
