05:30 a.m. The shrill of my alarm yanks me from a deep,
sweet sleep. Groggy, puffy-eyed, I’m not quite sure where I am or why I am
being woken up . . . then it hits me! Ethiopia! I snap out of bed, and in an instant
my shoes are on my feet and my camera is in my hands, and I’m scampering out of
the door to make sure I don’t miss it.
Just in time! I settle on a jetty, breathe in a deep and full cloud of crisp morning air and wait…just a little bit…and what soon begins as a glimmer on the crest of a hill, building to reveal silhouettes hidden before me in shadow,
within minutes becomes an exploding spectrum of colour above my eyes and below my feet. My first Ethiopian sunrise, reflected in the Kuriftu’s calm waters, does not disappoint! But as the light begins to reveal the secrets in the shadows, I realise I am not alone, and out in the centre of Lake Kuriftu is a man, walking towards me - on the water . . .
Just in time! I settle on a jetty, breathe in a deep and full cloud of crisp morning air and wait…just a little bit…and what soon begins as a glimmer on the crest of a hill, building to reveal silhouettes hidden before me in shadow,
within minutes becomes an exploding spectrum of colour above my eyes and below my feet. My first Ethiopian sunrise, reflected in the Kuriftu’s calm waters, does not disappoint! But as the light begins to reveal the secrets in the shadows, I realise I am not alone, and out in the centre of Lake Kuriftu is a man, walking towards me - on the water . . .
In part two of four in our travel series on Ethiopia, we
will be looking at the five lakes district of Debre Zeit, the lakes of which
are home to many luxurious water-side
resorts and is the site of much tourism development.
Debre Zeit
Five great places to stay
Debre Zeit is experiencing a boom in tourism development, and there are dozens of new luxury hotels and resorts, still under construction, springing up across the five lakes district. However there are plenty of well-established hotels and resorts to choose from. Below are five of our favourites.
BABOGAYA RESORT, on the lake of the same name, offers
modern, chic accommodation in its main building and the garden cottages that
dot the banks of the lake. The rooms are stylish, cool and comfortable with
fantastic views of the lake. However, you will have a desire to spend most of
your time either out on the water, in the beautiful lake side restaurant and
bar facilities, or relaxing on the terraced lawns that overlook the majesty of
the lake and its surrounds. The
exquisite lobby overs another great place to relax, offering a lounge
atmosphere, and functioning as a contemporary Ethiopian art gallery (www.bogayaresort.com).
DREAMLAND Hotel and Resort, on the banks of Lake Bishoftu,
towers high above the lake offering comfortable and stylish accommodation with
fantastic panoramic views of the crater lake and its surrounds. In the true
intercontinental spirit of hotels, Dreamland offers a high standard of service
in the heart of the natural splendour of Debre Zeit (www.ethiodreamland.com).
ASHAM AFRICA Hotel and Resort , also on Lake Bishoftu, is
another hotel that towers high above the lake and terraces down its steep banks offering a
multi-level accommodation experience. This hotel is interestingly unique as the
rooms are all themed after different African nations, and the rooms are in turn
styled in the décor and tradition of African cultures as diverse as Cameroon,
Kenya, Uganda Senegal – among others. The hotel also houses an art gallery,
where traditional pieces from all these nations are on display
(www.ashamafrica.com).
KURIFTU Resort and Spa, on the lake of the same name, is a
very special place, and offers visitors a uniquely unforgettable stay. The
resort is styled with a strong sense of Ethiopian culture, and built using
traditional materials and methods, that have successfully been translated into
a contemporary luxury experience. Right on the water’s edge and set in the
pristine crater basin of Lake Kuriftu,
natural beauty and animal life abound. The ethos of the establishment is
admirable, as consideration for the environment has played a key role in the
development of the resort, which houses 150 suites, a luxurious spa and hair
salon, full conferencing facilities, a massive swimming pool and even its own
Cinema! The Kuriftu Resort and Spa group also champions Ethiopia’s cultural
heritage, and at their lake side restaurant, the finest in Ethiopian cuisine is
served amidst cultural decorations, and even on occasion plays host to
traditional dances and fashion shows. Still under development are the resort’s
villas, which will offer guests their own private holiday home, complete with a
personal butler and outdoor Jacuzzi.
Also under construction is Kuriftu’s new exclusive resort on
Lake Hora, with some of the suites as well as the dining terrace already
completed. If phase one is anything to go by, the completed resort is going to
be an exquisite jewel on the five-lakes crown of Ethiopia. Kuriftu also have a
magnificient resort on Lake Tana in the city of Bahir Dar. The Kurifu group of
resorts offer Travellers a uniquely Ethiopian experience, yet with all the
comforts, luxury and security of a world class hotel (www.kurifturesortandspa.com).The Sacred three C’s
Although Debre Zeit is classed as a ‘resort town,’ there is still plenty of the endemic Ethiopian experience to be had even if your entire Ethiopian holiday is at one of the five lake’s many resorts. Of course resorts like Kuriftu offer you an in-house cultural preview, but venturing out there is plenty of traditional and contemporary Ethiopian way of life to be found in and around Debre Zeit.
Cuisine
The hotels and local restaurants offer up some of the tasty
local cuisine, and a staple to every meal – be it breakfast, lunch or dinner –
is injera.
Likened in form to a thick, grey pancake, injera is made from an endemic
species of wheat grass known as teff. The water and teff flour mixture used in its
preparation is left to ferment for three days before it is ready for use, which
gives the injera a slightly sour, vinegary taste. Injera is then used as a sort
of edible plate, with the main coursed placed on top of it, and then the rolled
up pieces of injera are used(only in the right hand) as a sort of spoon-fork to
scoop up whatever is on the menu for that meal.
A usual accompaniment is Wot, which is a blanket term for a variety of
spicy stews and sauces which can be likened to curry, although with its own
distinctive arsenal of flavours. From vegetarian through fish, to the many
chicken varieties of wot, you will have an taste adventure from meal to meal.
Coffee
It is said, that man’s love affair of coffee began in
Ethiopia’s Kaffa region, where the plant originates. As the birthplace of
modern day coffee culture, Ethiopians still practice their own age-old and
elaborate coffee ritual, that takes place at least three times in a day. The
ritual begins with green coffee beans being roasted in a cast-iron pan over
open coals, before being ground up and brewed in a traditional earthenware pot
known as a jebena.
The buna, or
coffee as we know, it is then served black (sugar is optional) in tiny
handle-less cups. It is etiquette that you enjoy at least three rounds of
coffee from each round of brewing. Interestingly, popcorn is traditionally
served as snack and palette-cleanser as part of these rituals. There is
something special about drinking a cup of coffee that has been prepared with
such ritualistic attentiveness, and in the birth place of its modern day use.Culture
Debre Zeit is relatively rural, and the local population
still live very traditional lifestyles. The dwellings around Lake Bishoftu,
although quite impressively fashioned, are still constructed in the traditional
wood and earth materials that they have been for many years. The locals,
friendly and welcoming, lead simple yet successful traditional lives, and in
their eyes and hearts you will find the true spirit of Ethiopia. Lak Hora, in
particular, plays host to the annual Irecha Rite. This traditional ceremony centres
around sacred trees in the area, and especially a specific ancient fig tree.
Here the faithful gather, and smear butter, perfume and traditional drinks on
the trunks of the trees in homage to the life-giving spirit of nature.
Traditional meals are then shared in the shade of these trees. Debre Zeit offers visitors to Ethiopia a great and convenient opportunity to explore the country and culture. With its wold class resorts, pristine natural splendour, rich cultural heritage, as well as its convenient proximity to the capital city and its attractions, Debre Zeit is an ideal port of call for first time visitors to this interesting and intriguing nation.
As the day continues to dawn on my first morning in Ethiopia, the growing light
begins to reveal the man behind the silhouette, the mystery behind the water
walker moving towards me. With a sudden swish and shower of droplets, he casts
his net. With perfect balance and elegant poise, the fisherman stands at water
level, ankle deep, floating on the inner tubes of truck tyres, lashed together
with twine. He reels his net in without a catch and patiently rolls it up.
Using a single rod of bamboo as an oar, he moves to a new spot on the lake,
before repeating the process. Watching this age old process unfold before me in
the fiery hues of the new day, I breathe in a full lung of fresh Ethiopian air,
and exhale a psalm of gratitude for the marvellous world we live in.