“ Ish, ish” ( “ok, ok” to you and me) says
the old man in response to my request.
As his hand strikes the centuries old cowhide and the drum thump echoes
against the walls of the ancient church, a tingle rises up my spine as
goose-bumps break out on my skin.
Standing in the majesty of this centuries old place of worship,
listening to the rhythm
of the sacred beat that has stirred its silence for over three hundred years, a strange sensation is washing over me – I feel so far
away from everything I have ever known, but at the same time I feel that somehow I am home.
of the sacred beat that has stirred its silence for over three hundred years, a strange sensation is washing over me – I feel so far
away from everything I have ever known, but at the same time I feel that somehow I am home.
The city of Gondar was established in 1636
by the Emperor Fasillades as his base of power, and remained the capital of
Ethiopia for over 250 years. Therefore, Gondar remains a city steeped in
cultural heritage and rich in historical splendour. This makes the city one of
the most visited by tourists, and is must for anyone who is interested in the
fascinating and intriguing legacy of the Ethiopian empire that traces its roots
back 3000 years to King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba (approx. 980 B.C.). Located in the North-Western territory of the
country, Gondar is accessible conveniently by road and air travel and plays
host to many high quality hotels and tourist facilities.
Medieval
castles under African skies
The crown of the Gondarian tourist experience
is a visit to the Royal Compound established by the Emperor Fasillades in the
17th Century, and is a registered UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Covering a total area of 70,000 square meters, the compound hosts the many
castles built by Fasillades and his descendants, as well as other structures
such as a banqueting hall, stables, lion cages, a chancellery, a library and
three churches (among others). The compound is surrounded by high walls, and
was originally accessed through twelve gates that dot the circumference, and
are symbolic of the Biblical reference to the 12 Tribes of Judah.
A visit to the royal compound transports
visitors back in time, and the Castles of Gondar can stand their ground against
to the splendour of the castles of Europe.
Of
Faith and Philosophy
Gondar provides visitors with many
historical attractions that stand as a testament to the strong religious
heritage that has guided Ethiopia throughout is history. Beyond the walls of
the Royal Compound there are many sites of interest that one can visit. Two of
particular interest are the Baths of Emperor Fasillades and the Church of Debre
Birhan Sellasie.
The Baths of Emperor Fasillades was built
during his reign as a place of recreation and religious festivity. The central
building is surrounded by a massive pool of water, that takes 3 weeks to fill to its capacity. This is done
once a year for the Festival of the Epiphany, an annual religious festival,
which is the only occasion that the site is used in modern times.
The Church of Debre Birhan Selassie was
built during the reign of Iyasu I (1682 – 1706) and is still in use today as a
place of worship and ritual. The church is well known for its elaborate and
well preserved painted walls, which depict the life of Christ, Mary and the Saints.
Beyond
the past
Gondar has much more to offer tourists than
its historical sites; its popularity as a tourist destination ensures that
there is plenty to see and do. A part from good hotels and restaurants,
visitors can also visit the colourful and elaborate daily market to find modern
and traditional items, as well as experience the cultural experience of
Ethiopian market life. The Felasha
Village is also a great place to visit. It was once the home of the Bete Israel
(Ethiopian Jews) community, and is now a centre of traditional craft.
Jewellery, embroidered and hand-woven garments, clay pots, as well as
sculptural artworks are some of the treasures to be found here.
Gondar is also the tourism springboard for
visits to the natural attractions of the area. Both the Simien National Park
and the Alatish National Park are found a short distance from Gondar, as well
as the North shore of Lake Tana. As the gateway to these attractions, Gondar
allows the opportunity to discover some of the magnificent natural scenery and
animal life that Ethiopia has to offer.
As the sun sets on our Destination Travel feature on the enchanting, exciting and eclectic Ethiopia, may your curiosity and intrigue encourage you to take the trip and discover the wonders of this magical land.